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Fracked fashion4/16/2023 ![]() ![]() “I love the sense of refocus it brings,” said Galliano. The spirit of subversion was as strong as ever. ![]() At the far end of the fabric spectrum, a fringed dress was created from strips of black bin-bag plastic, stretched and hand-rolled. A parade of nurses - Valletta! Elson! Trentini! - wore hospital scrubs-cum-capebacked coats in duchesse satin. His shoes were Tabi’s, modelled on Florsheim’s classic policeman’s shoe, but glossed with a glittering scarab finish. The cape that Count’s father wore to his wedding was lined in an 18th century kimono. For the red of Anna Cleveland’s dress, Atelier Dynale duplicated Yardley’s long discontinued lipstick shade Coral, which Galliano had been obsessed with ever since he gave Faye Dunaway a lift and she proceeded to paint her lips from a cherished tube of Coral she kept in a ziplock bag in her purse. (A striking example married Vivier, Lacroix and YSL.) Prom dresses were also three in one, creating an artfully undulating trapeze line. Or “recicla.” Here, three shoes were recycled into one Tabi-toed pump. Like “sandstorming.” The spectral cowboys wore dusters in jacquards minutely beaded and flocked to look like they’d just walked out of a desert storm. You can’t imagine, because you’re dealing not just with a collection but also how it looks on film.” Mock-exhausted, he added, “So one a year will suit me fine.”ĥ9 characters, 59 looks, spanning a spectrum of techniques so exhaustive Galliano said that someone is compiling them all in an encyclopaedia. How did the challenge compare with, say, his mindblowing Dior couture show at the Opéra Garnier in 1998? “There is no comparison with the work I did then. “99 camera angles!” the designer marvelled. ![]() But he managed to combine the two processes: the sweeping physicality of a grand Galliano fashion show captured in intimate detail by the constantly circling cameramen, moving in seamless choreography across a huge stage inside the Théâtre de Chaillot. This was the first time the designer had staged a physical event in three years and it was something of a wrench because he had so fallen in love with making films for his collections during lockdown. He’s always spinning a yarn around a character, and haute couture, where clothes and personality are in closest communion, is his ideal fashion medium. But storytelling has been the driver of every Galliano collection. One audience member mentioned Ivo Van Hove, another director with a knack for building intense narratives around the barest theatrical bones. The skeletal but evocative production recalled Lars von Trier’s Dogville. Maison Margiela Artisanal Autumn/Winter 2022 look 4. And all of this in a pell-mell 29 minutes. Suddenly Count and Hen are back in their car, driving through the badlands again, in an eternal, purgatorial loop. Blanche Dubois arrives as a ghostly guardian angel. The narrative was dense: flashbacks showed the young protagonists meeting, falling in love, turned into step-siblings by the marriage of their villainous parents ( that was a Euphoria moment!), murdering Mum and Dad, then fleeing, before they die in a shootout with their spectral pursuers in an old cinema, at which point they transcend this brutal world for the magical realm of the movies. Because that’s what he was actually doing in front of our eyes.Ĭollaborating with the British theatre company Imitating the Dog, Galliano simultaneously lensed and screened a film, Cinema Inferno, acted and lip-synced by a cast of 59 of his model “muses,” male and female. Galliano said his inspiration was “all the films that have had an influence on me and made me the man I am today.” You have to stir A Streetcar Named Desire and Suddenly, Last Summer into the mix to complete the picture the designer was making. Young lovers on the lam, fleeing through the American badlands, hotly pursued by vigilantes? It could have been … well, Badlands. PARIS - “ Euphoria’s got nothing on this script,” John Galliano enthused about the story he’d written for Maison Margiela’s latest Artisanal presentation. ![]()
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